It looks like the uncured resin fully dissolved. Yeah all UV is not the same. However, you may have experienced the global shortage of IPA wash solvent due to COVID-19 or your facility may be unable to use IPA due to flammability concerns or local restrictions. This time I preheated the Mean Green in the ultrasonic cleaner to 50C. I use a mix of Siraya Blu and Elegoo grey and while the Elegoo is pretty normal, Siraya has a reputation for becoming thick and unworkable when the temperature drops too much. If yes, did you dilute it? I've used it to make alcohol ink and clean all kind of things. Forum contains no unread posts Failing to properly wash parts will leave the parts sticky and unseemly, so post-processing is vital to successful 3D printing. It does need a good rinse with water afterward. Auf dem Display; Fragezeichen hinter der Rest-Druck-Zeit. BRENNTAG - Please contact by calling 1-610-926-6100. Figured it would keep the IPA cleaner for longer. Thet stuff is labelled "Bio". Since IPA is considered a hazardous chemical, disposing of it, especially tainted with resin, is not that easy. I can probably use a milder blend. There is also the benefit that you dont need to wait for the print to fully dry, which you will need to do otherwise as youll get some cloudy spots on the print if parts of it are wet when curing. Which led to the next question I posed: Would it be possible to just put the print into an ultrasonic cleaner filled with water? Subreddit dedicated to creating a community around users of SLA and other resin-based 3D printing systems. There have been plenty of posts about this over on r/3Dprinting which I'm sure probably have an answer. For more detailed information about washing your prints, continue reading on our support site to learn more about rinsing stages, best practices for different part geometries, and more. Thanks for reading, so glad you found it helpful. https://www.britishchemicalproducts.co.uk/product.asp?s=qvcn8v2090584&strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=323&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1. Things looked pretty good so I washed them with warm water while removing the supports. When curing the parts in the Form Cure, you can also submerge small parts in a bath of clean water, glycerin, or mineral oilinside of a glass Pyrex container. Minis on larger surface areas came out much better, but top surface of base (assuming I didn't scrub enough) and deep creases still shiny/showing residue. It still seems to remove most of the uncured goo. , Often linked posts:Going small with MMU2Real Multi MaterialMy prints on Instagram. Before finishing, we recommend washing in water. If you are like me then youve noticed that the coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic has caused a massive shortage of IPA. So would Methylated Sprits do the same job? I have been using IPA 91%, but figured I'd try something different with the shortage going on. I refuse to by pricey "special" resin cleaners from folks like 3DJake. When creating designs with narrow channels, such as. Don't go drinking it thought, it's evil. I got some other detergent on the radar, which is from Sagrotan and thus almost double the price. You won't be able to separate/dissolve the uncured resin from the cured resin without the use of a solvent that has enough of a hydrocarbon back-end (IPA, even Ethanol has 2 carbons) to interact with the organic non-polar functional groups present on the UV-Curable resins. Definitely not what I was looking for. I scanned through their safety sheet and tried out different cleaning agents. Isopropyl alcohol is the obvious answer, but when it is in short supply what are my alternatives. It turns out that IPA is not necessary to clean a resin 3D print if you have the right equipment. My ultrasonic was set to 35C and 3 minutes. 2) Mean green in tub 1, CW1 wash for 5 min. For these cases, we can share other recommended solvents and solutions that our customers have used successfully. I have a can of it that I got from the hardware store in the pain section which I use in my alcohol burner that I use to tip new arrows. Im very new to resin printing, this having been my first print on the printer, and I built my own curing setup by using a germicidal UV discharge lamp. If using heat set the temperature and wait for it to equilibrate. I am still looking for alternatives due to the extreme price. I might try that on another run, or if the print doesnt sit well on the turntable by itself. After the ultrasonic cleaner settled it did appear that the resin sank to the bottom of the vat. You could go and see if they have Polish Rectified Spirit, Spirytus Duch Puszczy or Spirytus Rektyfikowany. Formlabs 3D Model Manager Evan Fisher walks the viewersthrough CAD and PreForm tips for larger parts and introduces Form Wash L and Form Cure L for post-processing. The idea behind curing the print submerged is that the curing reaction can be inhibited by oxygen. I was just a bit over optimistic about the resin setting down after a while. I dont know yet how many build plates I can do in a single batch of Mean Green before it needs to be changed out. Any ideas on where to source the basket for the CW1? The other thing I may try is Methyl Hydrate (aka methyl alcohol, methanol, wood alcohol) it is readily available here in hardware stores, at an economic price, I'm just not sure if it's a direct replacement for IPA or Ethanol. Using the Photons test print (the lattice cube), cleaning results were excellent. Preheat to 30C, dry 10 min, cure 10 min. Formlabs have a couple of good posts on it: https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Washing-prints-with-TPM?language=en_US, https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Tripropylene-glycol-monomethyl-ether-TPM?language=en_US, I'm in the UK and I purchased it from here: https://www.britishchemicalproducts.co.uk/product.asp?s=qvcn8v2090584&strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=323&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1. When handling wash solvents, always consult the safety data sheet (SDS) from the supplier as the primary source of information and ensure appropriate ventilation when handling. About how long can you reuse it before having to dispose of it? I've printed 1l of resin so far with 0 issues using either the IPA or Acetone, but as you say quite rightly, the Acetone stinks whereas the IPA is a lot milder. I've tested IPA, Monocure ResinAway and 3DJake Resin Cleaner. Just a few minutes under running warm water and it was clean. I ended up leaving it in the sun the next day after realizing that I didnt actually post-cure it. You might need to increase the duration of the wash and maybe use a soft tooth brush to get into little tiny crevices without the heat. Super helpful. Maybe it clears faster that way and the resin can be filtered out. After the first failure, you changed two variables, i.e., you doubled the amount of ultrasonic time from a single 5-minute bath to two 5-minute baths, and you also increased the bath temperature from ~22 C to 50 C. Have you tried experimenting whether it was the temperature increase that did the trick, or was it the second bath that fixed it? But if your process only works with 50 C heat, then Ill have to find a different ultrasonic cleaner. Sorry to hear that Flash Cleaner in the Anycubic wash and cure station isnt working. All the fine particulate accumulates there and you can just toss it as its been cured. He finds that this helps to free up some resin before you finish washing your parts with IPA. I did not break out the two variables as this was less of a controlled study and more of a Oh no, I have 1 bottle of IPA left and cant get it kind of necessity. Press J to jump to the feed. Private I used Simple Green Extreme in a strong ~11:1 dilution, since I had some for general purpose cleaning. So I just ran into the same problem and thought for sure I can't the only one. Turns out those dont have a strong 405nm line, so it wasnt very effective at all at actually curing the resin. I am wondering if there are alternatives to this that could more easily evaporate off when done. As Im printing with a 50/50 mix of Elegoo Rapid Grey and Siraya Blu this also was not an option for me. Has anyone tried Mean Green? If you end up going with a room temperature cleaning Id love to hear how that worked out and if you needed to do anything differently. Forum contains unread posts Im honestly not sure if this explanation is completely correct but anecdotally I have noticed for my prints that when I cure then submerged in water they do seem to cure faster. In general, IPA is our recommended post-processing solvent for cleaning resin prints. For the resin tainted solution I do the same thing as I used to with IPA. This includes wiping down the build platform to remove excess resin before putting the object into the wash. Another technique I found that works well is to use compressed air to blow uncured resin off the platform and back into the resin tank before washing.. Bioethanol is the same as ethanol, but supposedly from renewable resources, both are available in a number of different purities, Exposing them to the atmosphere allows them to absorb moisture, which messes with the purity! Since it contains some "soapy" component, the washed-off resin remains in an emulgated state for some time, so the liquid turns opaque after the third process or so, but after two days resting time it clears itself and the resin collects at the bottom of the container. I've seen some posts about letting it dry/harden in sunlight so it can be disposed of as a solid in regular trash, but that seems to have varying degrees of success. Safe to use so long as you are aware of the risks and takes steps to mitigate them. Brand new to the resin printing scene, I've been printing in PLA for almost a year and wanted to print some amazing ingredients detailed minis for my YouTube channel and painting service, so chose the Anycubic Photon (just arrived!) Warming the solution just makes the Prusa Tough orange resin go limp and features become delicate and break off. Please contact by calling their Sales & Customer Service U.S. Toll Free number: 1-800-531-7106. Aaand good luck with that. Does anyone have any feedback on using the TFR505? Is there any alternative tou could recommend please? He said yes but that it would be overkill as ultrasonic cleaners are expensive and he's right - I found a cleaner with a half gal capacity tank cheapest around $170; 1gal upwards of 300 (please let me know if you find them cheaper), but if youre just printing minis and/or dice for some custom D&D campaigns you can find small ultrasonic cleaners meant for jewelry on amazon in the $30 range. A little better, but still not what I want. It does create bubbles. I hit it with a UV light for 10+ minutes to cure all the loose resin then I run it through a coffee filter in a funnel. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. that would perform the same job". I placed the prints in a glass jar and covered them with room temperature water. Mark all read, Topic Icons: Thank you for sharing your progress. Post-processing your parts is crucial to the SLA 3D printing workflow. I'm happy I'm seeing progress, but still not satisfied, especially with all the extra effort I'm having to do compared to before. they make water washable resin now -> amazon. But it is still cheaper than IPA. I'll try a coffee filter the other day, but I expect quite some amount to be in solution rather than just emulgated. Parts should be washed before removing supports. Recent Posts Unread Posts Tags, Forum Icons: Alcohol is flammable, please do not create an unsafe situation. Once the timer has stopped remove the basket and inspect your prints. Thanks for the report. By browsing our website, you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. Different resins will respond differently as well. It does require a second cleaning step to wash off the Simple Green, but its water soluble, so a simple rinse helped there. I can find it in smaller bottles, but I'd like to have a jug to drain it all back into. Form Wash and Form Wash L automatethe print washing process for consistent, thorough, no-mess cleaning, while Form Cure and Form Cure L precisely combines heat and 405 nm light to consistently post-cure prints. Hope you have luck looking at alternate cleaning methods, for non-IPA based cleaners it seems the agitation is very important so if you are trying to replace the old IPA dip and shake method you might not get far. In addition to disposal/environmental concerns, it's not easy to find a gallon jug of 91-99% IPA in the US. Someone pointed me to an Elegoo forum post about using Mean Grean to clean the parts instead of IPA. Closed, General discussion, announcements and releases. Rinsing, washing, and curing allows you to produce highly functional, detailed parts and finish your parts effectively. If you try this method we would love to hear about your experiences in the comments below. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Great find. .header_responsive { width: 320px; height: 100px; } I tried the UK equivalent of Mean Green (Flash Cleaner) It might work in an ultrasonic cleaner at 50degrees C but it definitely does not work in an Anycubic wash and cure station as it leaves an oily residue. After I removed them from the build plate I cleaned them in room temperature Mean Green in the ultrasonic cleaner for 5 minutes. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); 2019 RAVE ROBOT, LLC. Take off minis, and scrub with toothbrush followed by dunk rinse in tub 2 of water. Yeah I got 1l of resin with the printer. Ethanol should dissolve resin similar to IPA and might be a good cheaper substitute for IPA. I just started using my SL1 and opted to use "Mean Green" for starters. There are a few based on similar solvents as Mean Green. I will probably give it a try though. This is specifically noticeable in crevices and fine detail. Why not? I then let the liquid evaporate off or you can bottle it up and dispose of it depending on your local laws. I started printing pretty recently and went with denatured alcohol. Acetone is more hazardous to your health and the environment. Thanks for reading, I hope you found the post helpful! your print). I put them back in for another 5 minute cycle to clean off any remaining resin. Parts should be moved around in the solvent as well as soaked for optimal cleaning. Im in the uk also and this looks like a great solution. He said, and I'm quoting him here, "shit man you could go down to the liquor store and grab a bottle of Everclear or even some cheap bottle of Karkov vodka, really. Your email address will not be published. If youre interested in acquiring TPM for your workflow, we recommend this list of approved vendors: To learn more about integrating TPM into your workflow and special disposal requirements, please continue reading on our support site. Im calling this test a failure. The whole point of using isopropyl is because it is a poor solvent that dries quickly. Fill up the reservoir with your cleaner of choice. Are you using a purchased station, made your own like I did, or just using the sun? Automation Engineer in the Biotechnology industry and a founding member of RaveRobot. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. I was thinking of ordering a second steel tank cover + magnetic mixer so I could do a water bath before IPA bath. I also want my parts to be strong. -Prusa i3 MK3 single extruder (kit) as intended by author-Creality CR-10 modded beyond recognizabilitty Constantly sleep-deprived. I again cured them submerged in clean water for 5 minutes.This time there are no glossy areas, even in the very detailed crevices of the characters faces or the grooves in the bases. I'm also trying to put it back in the bottle and radiate it with UV. Mean Green is pretty awesome at removing resin. Methylated spirits should be available in most hardware stores. My favourite so far is named "Frosch Spiritus Glas-Reiniger" (1,65 per liter). Preheat to 30C, dry 10 min, cure 10 min. This is a huge help to me as I was looking at a long pause from resin printing until I could secure IPA. Alcohol will quickly aerosolize in the ultrasonic cleaner and that close to electronics it is not a safe combination. The water, glycerin, or mineral oil helps exclude oxygen from the surface of your printed part as you post cure, resulting in a tack-free well-cured surface. Attempts listed below, mean green as is without dilution: 1) Mean green in tub 1, CW1 wash for 5 min.
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