Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. In stark contrast to the regular paints, the Game Color Metallics are incredibly thick and heavy and, whilst you could probably get away with not thinning down the non-metallic colours if you really wanted to, youd be a fool to try the same thing with their metallic counterparts. Given how good Vallejos Metal Color Airbrush range is, this shouldnt really have been a surprise. Anyone know the big difference between the 2 beside the label? If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. I use a mix, and base my choices on what I know works. For example MM has the Vallejo Model Color Range Box Set for $220. I'm probably going to stick with plain old brush for now but might look in to airbrush in the future. In fact, across all the colours I tested, the blues were by far my favourites. A couple of colours Bone White, Orange Fire , and the yellows in the range spring immediately to mind come out very unevenly and can be a little lumpy. what. Youve got the consistency of the Vallejo Game Color paints right and they go on beautifully but that can sometimes be a little more of a battle than you may first assume it will be. But I'm a paint whore. I still use GW inks on occassion, and still have a few select colors that I use that I just haven't replaced with vallejo. I'm especially interested in the various flesh tones: Dead Flesh vs Deck Tan, Dwarf Flesh vs Dark Rose, Bronze Flesh vs Dark Flesh, Filthy Brown vs Medium Flesh, etc. If I were doing Perdita I would use something like Cold Grey and Regal Blue for jeans, bloody red and white for a pink shirt, and bonewhite and some sort of brown for her hat. Part of it goes down to painting style. If I had all of those 220, I'd probably never use more than half of them. GoldenSkeleton, I don't think I've painted two minis with the same flesh recipe. I was a big fan of their violet, and used it all these years until I finally ran out. I then had a go with another WePrintMiniatures figure: Salome. It's always easier to thin paint then thicken it. Pasted as rich text. theres no U. Learn how your comment data is processed. I prefer model colour over game because they are thicker. I think the lesson here is that if youre tempted to try some new techniques, do so with paints youre more familiar with. Every aspect of this hobby is extremely subjective, so Ill end this review with this: Vallejos Game Color paints are an excellent alternative paint range. Is that the case with the entire range or do I just have a couple of bad bottles? By Long story short - pick up a few paints from different ranges and see what you like best. Right now I'm trying to decide between Game Color and Model Color. I use mainly GW fundations, washes and a few P3 which I can thin as much as I like(those P3 pots are killing my thumb to open though, not a good system at all!!). I've got the full range of Game Colors, 30-odd Model colors, Tamiya Smoke (another cant-live-without paint), Testors Fantasy Acryls (mostly metalics), Reaper (mostly fleshtones and pearlescents), and Citadel (mostly inks). For Vallejo Model colors, I've found mixing brown sand with either flat flesh or basic flesh tone works well. Fantization does sell the paint at $2.99 a bottle. I've got the GC metalics, but prefer to use Testors Fantasy Acryl metalics. Google has informed me you cannot currently buy this particular set as Vallejo (like many companies) are currently suffering from some big supply issues, but all of the colours that were in it are still readily available for you to purchase. Enamels? Rob has spent most of the last 15 years playing World of Warcraft and writing stories set in made-up worlds. An excellent alternative to most game-brand colour ranges and a solid rung up on the painting ladder, Vallejos Game Color range will see you right. From beginners who have never held a brush to pros who have been painting for years. A lot of my GW paints are now just scenery paint, lol. It will take off the stray bits, but also the color underneath. Well, you won't get any argument from me, Cade13! Looking for a new range of paints to keep the unpainted plastic hordes at bay? These days I still have a few dozen GW paints and just picked up their new washes after hearing so much good stuff about them, still have the full Game Color but have also added about half the P3 range and plan on picking up the other half in time. Hmmm, Model colour does have a tendency to rub off before you have time to seal it. The range on the left is Minitaire, an airbrush line from Badger. The Model Color has some excellent colors, however, and is a bit thicker so it might appeal to you if you like your paint thick. What do I use? Create an account to follow your favorite communities and start taking part in conversations. ). They just wouldnt be my go-to range. Where did you hear that? These orders are shipped to the FLGS with regular stock, so I pay no shipping. Overall, model colors seem to be the most popular among the painters I've talked to. Game Color's Elf Flesh is a nice base for a very pale skinned person. I've just learned that the hard way. When Game Color saw the light, they were intended to be used directly from the bottles, without needing to add water. Had I purchased the entire line, I'd have payed $726. Vallejos own Model Color paints fair much better in this area. The only time I tried some Vallejo I found them too thin. Primarily, how accurate is this color conversion chart? I myself love the browns and the blues and even rather like the greys and whites in this range, but would quite happily never touch the yellows ever again. Then youre in luck: paints dont come with a much better pedigree than the legendary Vallejo, and their Game Color range is one of the best available. You can take some of the orange out of the vallejo skin tones with select browns. Also, I feel Game Color can preserve brush strokes while Model Color doesn't. I would use whatever works, I tried Vallejo a long time ago & was not sold on them so use a mixture of Miniature Paints, GW mostly metallics, Foundry which are a lot like GW, & Tamyia especially the Gloss medium & smoke. This does however have the sideeffects that the color rubs off easy which isn't good for wargaming. They also have packs of colors that are a good value. My plan for now was probably to buy all (or at least most) of the model color paints on one of these conversion charts. I applied a fairly fine drybrush of Livery Green to the leprechaun, just to pick out the edges and extremities on his jacket, hat and trousers, and this went on reasonably well in absence of a proper edger highlight. I prefer how the model color flows, it's silkier or something I feel, and I prefer a more naturalistic paint approach so the colors are more appealing to me in Model Color. The P3's are awesome but I still like having a very broad range of pre mixed colors. The rest of the time, I use certain colors for a base and I rely on the shading and highlight tones to move the overall color to what I want. I also use oil based enamels, artists inks ans any thing else I have happened to find works for me. The metallic colours in the Game Color range will require a little more thinner than the regular paints, but youll be able to master some interesting colour transitions if you stick with it and keep practising. I've read in a few places that Model Color lays down better but is perhaps less durable (but that issue is alleviated with a varnish). With all the metallic colours I tested, I needed only the slightest amount of water to get the metallic colours thinned down appropriately. I'll probably start with a set of 16 game colour paints (modified from the basic set). They photograph beautifully. I use a combination of both. Vallejo's whites also tend to be too chalky to get a nice finish, so I use Skull White and Bleached Bone as my only non-Foundation Citadel paints. Paints, Reviews Powered by Invision Community. Because the Vallejo Game Color range are, on the whole, very thin, the non-metallic paints arent the best for drybrushing. Layering is when the Vallejo Game Color paints really come into their own. Re: Vallejo Model color vs Game color paints. Don't do it. I'm going to agree and disagree with Whiz. If you get the opportunity to try them out, make sure you do so. I have a half dozen bottles of Coat D'arms, but they are more than 10 years old. Even if I bought them, I would still need to buy a few of the Game Colors I like and a few of the varnishes. Thicker, gives me more control on how I want to dilute the paint and with. Vallejo have been making paints since 1965 originally for cartoons in a time before animation or computers. CapnBloodbeard, January 17, 2012 in Malifaux Discussion. With approaching 60 years in the business, thats the kind of name that comes with serious pedigree, and a great deal of experience. This is another feather in the Game Color ranges cap. Flesh tones are wierd. Soo back to the point ( no really this time ) I really need help on choosing the right series of colour to change to, and would appreciate all of your views and feelings on the Vallejo range of colour. A community for painting miniatures and models. Paste as plain text instead, It finally occurred to me that if I had simply shelled out the money for the full set all at once, I'd probably have saved myself a bit of money. I found the metallic paints actually went through the airbrush and onto a figure very well. Still, Id be inclined to go over some parts of this again with a regular paintbrush just to sure-up some of the most prominent highlights. You can also use the exact same paints for layering, so youre not limited by the range in any way. 0, Please Note: This site uses affiliate links. Of course I do end up with leftover paint on the pallet, but thats a small price to pay for proper paint consistency. Theyre priced very similarly to alternatives, such as Games Workshops Citadel Colour range, so you wont be out of pocket swapping your regular paints out for a few of these. It all depends on the colour I need at the time! Basecoating with the non-metallic Game Color paints is an exercise in patience and restraint. This is the only real, major gripe I have with the Game Color range: some of the paints are lovely and thick, and take to being watered down exceptionally well. Bones 6: Update #65 - Reaper pledge manager. Be wary, though: whilst you might suspect you actually need a reasonable amount of water to get these paints to their optimum consistency, you do not. You wouldnt know the difference between those paints on his armour and robes and their Citadel counterparts. That said, I will say this: If you're serious about painting and you can afford to buy the whole line of Model colors in one fell swoop, I'd do it. Foundation paints are supposed to make things go faster- instead of using a couple of coats of normal paint (or putting it on so thick it starts to obscure detail- yuck), you can use one coat of Foundation paint and get the same post-primer coverage. I've been painting for a couple of years now and have yet needed to buy a 2nd bottle of something I've run out of. Flesh tones are okay, I would say Scale75 has the best flesh colors from what I've used, either that or Vallejo Panzer Aces flesh tones. VMA metallics are generally really well regarded, especially the silvers, as being the best that aren't alcohol based like the Vallejo Liquid Gold range which are harder to work with but do provide a beautiful metallic. ? I have some of the Game colors but haven't tried the Model colors since no one here sells them and I'd have to order them. Then there's Vallejo skin tones, Vallejo Opaques, Vallejo Game/Model Colours, Vallejo Airs, washes/fluorescents/inks, and odds and ends. I'd guess 100 bottles would be enough for most people. Neither range has inks, though there is a range of transparent colors in the Model color line. I use a mix of (mostly) P3, a bit of each on Game Colour and Model Colour, and Vallejo Air Metallics (the Air Metallics have the finest particles on the market, making for a truer metallic finish), which I just started using. If you want to go "all in" - which if you really like the hobby I'd recommend, pick up one or more sets of paint (and I'd highly recommend an airbrush setup for ~$150). That's a great tip! Part of the time, I end up mixing a strange shade for something. If you don't want a 'cartoony' army, I would go with VMC. Vallejo Model colour black is fantastic. Really? Same here, I use a mix of the two. Part of the time, I'll use standard colors that I like: Black, Beasty Brown, etc. I'd probably just pick the colors I want that way. I threw mine in a box and stopped using them, that's how bad they are, they cover like torn tissue paper. I've not found a single company who's flesh colors I like. I figured if they are listed there they are used somewhat often. The reds in the Game OClour range strike me as being exceptionally watery, so getting them a good consistency for airbrushing is difficult. This actually caused me a few issues, as the amount of water you need to thin these down to their optimum consistency still actually varies within the range. Also the occassinoal GW (still working through them but moving to vallejo as they run out), and a pot or two of P3. Again, this applies double to the reds, oranges and yellows. Its the consistency again. Chainmail silver drank the water up and thinned down beautifully, but Glorious Gold became a frustrating runny puddle on my wet palette. Before we get started, there a few things to be aware of with Vallejos Game Color range. Our affiliates are shown in the sidebar on the homepage. Model colors are a bit thicker (read: need to be thinned more), and higher in pigment (or so I think for most colors). If you decide that Vallejo are the paints for you, you might want to consider buying yourself a vortex mixer to save your arm. The model colour line are darker colours with more intermediates for blending, layering etcLots of browns, ochres, greens, greys and so on. On the base of the figure above, you can see where the paint has smeared on the base, as opposed to applying properly. I'm actually not concerned about matching GW colors, but I don't want to buy both Pale Flesh and Light Flesh if they really are the same color. There are some standout colours that work really well or look really good though, such as Game Colour/Air Charred Brown for a rich brown or VMA Hull Red to shade your reds. Game Color supposedly uses a different type of pigment I believe? your likes/ dislikes comparisons ?? Seems to work very well for me. Restore formatting, You cannot paste images directly. I'd also thoroughly recommend the Citadel Foundation range. I'm burning through them until I run out, and Vallejo/Reaper/P3 will be replacing them. Being that I've got a AC hobby paint shaker, the Model Colors are no problem for me when it comes to shaking them. Display as a link instead, I honestly think my brain rot began by using those when I was new to this hobby as a lad. This article is part of our series looking into the best paints for Miniatures & Models. There are some really lovely browns in the range too, as you can see on the boats, gloves, chest armour and hat on the figure above. Of course, if you're competent in mixing your own colors, you may not need that many paints. I started with GW and still have some of the first generation Citadel paints & inks that are still kicking like 20 years later. They also say you can use alchohol to take off stray bits of paint. I noted above that, on the whole, paints in the Game Color range are quite thin. I saw someone who used model color on their Eldar and it lookedok. Wonder how he does it? September 15, 2021 The Reaper flesh tones are very nice. The only way to really thin your paint and make more transparent is adding more medium, so you can make smooth transitions, but in order to use the traditional way (adding water), you should use Game color which is, IMHO, definitively better. Again, the blues Imperial Blue, Magic Blue and Electric Blue were excellent, and could go toe-to-toe with their Citadel equivalents. It has 67 paints, but buying them individually ($2.45) is $164. I appreciate why some might not like them. The vast majority of the paints in the range go on as smooth as silk and work excellently with water. The new gw line has the modified cap, which is a bit easier to deal withflip top and all. Closed captioned for the thinking impaired. Dark flesh it too orange when thick a little, greenish when diluted. Do you feel like there really isn't a noticeable difference in color between a VMC and VGC paint on the same line of the Dakka conversion chart? Everything from tabletop wargames to board games, display pieces or just for fun! Can't wait to lay my hands on higher-quality paints in the fleshtone color range I love. What a bargain. Does one range offer better pigmentation/permanence and Flow than the other ? My FLGS offers a 20% discount on all special orders. I prefer the Game Colour range, just because I like the brighter colours. Game Color flesh tones are fine but nothing special IMO, they're a little gummy and weird to work with though. The metalics aren't worth it. Unlike Citadel Colour Base-branded paints, which are designed specifically to be applied as a basecoat, hence their thickness, Vallejos Game Color range does not handle basing in quite the same way. If you want advice on "essential" paints to cherry pick I can work up a list of that too from multiple Vallejo ranges as I have VGC, VMC, VGA, VMA and Liquid Gold (and GW, Army Painter, P3 and some others too). I wish I had. There will be people who disagree with me, who hate the browns and blues, but love the yellows. Paint is one of those personal things. Sure, you can do it as evidenced by the images below but it might just be easier to reach for a less watery paint in the first instance and save yourself some time, and stress. I use both model and game color. In general, it's easy enough to go for a mid-range tone and lighten or darken by mixing - it just gets harder to replicate exact shades, though I find that's not really an issue when highlighting. when GW started making bad paint i found these guys, they were citadels original manufacturer apparently, and they have kept making the same paint with a different name. Note you will need only an extremely small amount of Vallejos own airbrush thinner to get the regular paints to pass through an airbrush with very little trouble. Besides the difference in colors there's also a different binding agent in them. So I'm brand new to Malifaux, and I've picked up a Perdita Ortega box set as well as a Pandora one (no particular reason except they were cheap, 2nd hand but unpainted). I like the Game Color for its thinner consistency and its bright color range (it pretty much matches up 1:1 with GW's line). Oh, and don't forget craft paints and Liquitex Basics. In spite of their relative thinness, you can basecoat with a Game Color paint, youll just need to build your colour up in a lot of layers. Just make sure you shake them like crazy before trying to use them, and be ready to thin things down with a little water, as you would a normal paint. Is there a reason to have both? What's the benefit of using these over just a normal colour as my base colour? I think it comes down to the amount of pigment in the colour. Vallejo metallics their golds in particular are leaps and bounds ahead of Citadel metallics when it comes to layering. If you don't get anything else, buy the Smoke. Thanks for all that. You don't have to have them- I have yet to try any myself. They do have a couple of skin tones that don't just reek of orange. Lovely stuff for aging metal. Sorry for getting 2 big posts (so far) to read through ; p. edit: Here's a shot of my paint collection from a while ago, it's increased since then but this gives a rough idea. With the exception of certain peculiar colors, I've found them to roughly the same pigment strength when thinned to the same level. The browns are pretty good for the most part, again they're good for gold NMM work or leather etc. I'll hit up the LGS that sells VGC and see if he can't talk his supplier into slipping a bottle or 2 in with his next order. In general, I prefer Vallejo Model Colour because they are flatter than most of the other paints out there. Sorry if this is posted elsewhere, I did search and check the sidebar but didn't find anything. Thanks for the response. Also, when I eventually decide on colours (bloody hard to decide, once I choose a colour then I have to pick one of a dozen or more shades! Because the consistency of the paint is that much more aqueous, it can be quite difficult to get a decent amount of paint onto the brush for drybrushing. Bleah. The red did not go on as well. However, I would never need that many colors. The Game ranges are vibrant sci-fi and fantasy colours, the Model colours are more muted/realistic colours. I then swapped in a more familiar-looking Games Workshop figure (a Lord-Imperatant from the new AoS 3.0 ranges) to test out some of the metallic paints. please let us know in the comments. I can't speak to GW or P3 paints, but Vallejo paints are way too thick to use out of the bottle anyway. That said, I have been told they can be a huge time saver. Even in a line of 220 colors, I don't find what I want so I still have to mix. I love the colors, but hate the consistancy. There are some great colors in the line, but most of them are horrible. I'm always trying different combinations. By 4 ranges of washes and VGA has been added to it since then along with extra colours here and there. The model black brown is the best brown on the market. First off, Model colors were developed for the Historical Modeling crowd, while Game colors were made for, well, gamers. As you may suspect, though, there are certain paints within the range that are better at being drybrushed than others. This makes them perfect for gradually shifting or building colour on the surface of a miniature. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. I haven't had any trouble replicating muted, earthy tones when I've needed to. As youd expect, though, some colours base easier than others. It just takes several more coats. I still loath the silly dropper bottles Vallejo use. This is due to the medium. Display as a link instead, And I certainly don't use the metallics. Chances are, even if youre relatively new to the miniature painting hobby, youll have heard of Vallejo. I don't have an alcohol colors. You will want some of the model colors eventually, but start with what you know. If you could spare the time, all of your thoughts would be very useful as I'm sure you are very experienced with these paints. As far as I remember, the Game Colour are the more cartoony colours/vibrant, bright etcAlmost a copy of the Citadel colours. Still, those few paints aside, some of the paints are superb the greens, the browns, the blues and the greys in particular but others require a bit of patience. Vallejos whites and light greys Wolf Grey, Ghost Grey, Arctic White and Dead White are excellent. I'd probably go that route barring a better alternative. Even losing the metallics, it's still a good deal. For example I'd recommend Army painter and secret weapon washes over Vallejo, a couple GW basecoats such as red and yellow over Vallejo opaques and so on. However, from the Game Color line, Beasty Brown and Scorched Brown are must have colors for me. Which should you get? I'll probably start with a set of 16 game colour paints (modified from the basic set). GW's paints are very overpriced as a rule, but the Foundations are worth it in my opinion, especially Mechrite Red and Iyanden Darksun. Its a case of trial and error across the whole range so youll have to put the legwork in testing the correct mixes of paint and thinner for your airbrush, but once you get a knack for them, using the Game Color range through an airbrush will save you heaps of time. This descision was made somewhat easier by a recent event in trying to open a jar of my "usual" brand that I'm sure you can all name and relate too! Thats just how this kind of thing works. What's the benefit of using these over just a normal colour as my base colour? You know you will probably not like what you dig up, but you'll take it anyway. My collection includes a good number of each line, quite a few Pro paints, and a few straggler GW's (all of which are now in nice dropper bottles so I don't have to throw them around to open those aweful old jars). For the most part they are OK but a few of the colors seem terribly thin. You know, that point in your hobby life where you know the Citadel range inside and out. If you're open to being sold on airbrushing - they really make painting much more fun in a number of ways, and speed up a lot of boring tasks like base coating and highlighting, I can dig up an old post on that too. And like with most of this range, It also has a slightly glossy finish to it, which you can make out on the Leprechauns hat and boots in the image above. In spite of knowing this, in a moment of madness, I decided to have a go at some OSL on one of the figures I was testing with I couldnt look at the fireball in her hand and not feel as if there should be some light on her. Only you will know when you have enough paints for your purposes. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Upload or insert images from URL. You cant go far wrong with Vallejo. Because the paints are that much thinner, youll find yourself having to apply more layers than you might be used to in order to build up a good, solid colour on a figure. Game color is a terrible line of paints and I think most people would tell you the same. Whilst this makes certain techniques more difficult, a thinner consistency to a paint does make the non-metallic paints ideal for airbrushing. But either way, it is a hugely inconsistent paint line in terms of how it dries as well as how it handles, a lot of the colors are very thick but very transparent and thinning them down to a nice flowing consistency makes them basically useless because of how poorly they cover, others are fine like the browns and reds. IT does include some brushes, varnishes, and medium, but I think I can pick up those for less than the ~$60 difference. If anyone has any thoughts or resources I'd appreciate it. I used to be a big fan, but when I compared Game Color with Citadel, I could really notice the difference. Model Color uses a latex base, so it's a little soft on the model and can be damaged more easily (it was originally an animation paint). I have a ton of things I could paint. However, on the other side of this coin, the semi-glossy texture of the medium does allow and encourage a smoother blend if you are aiming for airbrush level transitions.
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